Leather Care

Full grain leather is not a finished surface. It is a living one. It darkens, softens and takes the shape of how you use it, and the marks it gathers along the way are the point rather than the problem. A little care keeps it going for decades.

Everyday

Wipe the surface with a dry, soft cloth when it picks up dust. That is genuinely most of it. Resist the urge to clean leather that does not need cleaning.

Conditioning

Condition two or three times a year with a neutral leather conditioner or balm. Apply a small amount with a soft cloth, work it in with light circles, leave it for an hour, then buff off what has not absorbed. Less is better. Over-conditioning softens leather past the point where it holds its shape.

If it gets wet

Blot the surface, do not rub. Let the piece dry at room temperature, away from radiators, hairdryers and direct sun, and let it dry fully before conditioning. Heat is what cracks leather, not water.

Storage

Keep leather out of direct sunlight, which fades it unevenly, and out of sealed plastic, which traps moisture. A cotton dust bag or an open shelf is ideal. Stuff bags lightly with paper so they hold their shape.

Marks and scratches

A light scratch on oil waxed or crazy horse leather will usually fade on its own. Warm the area with a fingertip and work the mark outward in small circles. Deeper marks settle into the patina rather than disappearing, which is how this leather is meant to age.

What to avoid

Household cleaners, alcohol wipes, saddle soap on finished leather, washing machines, and any attempt to speed up a patina. Time does that job better than you can.